Nahttypen: Guide to Different Seam types, Their Applications
Stitching clothes is an art which involves numerous steps; one of them is seaming. It is a method of joining two clothes during stitches. Nahttypen is a German word which means seam types; there are different kinds of seams based on their use, aesthetic, how they join the two clothes, and strength.
In this writeup, we will give you basic guidance about different kinds of seams, their applications, pros and cons. We will also guide you about their use and methods for different fabrics as well.
History of Nahttypen
Seaming is 25,000 years old; at that time, people used bone needles and thin fibres of plan to sew and join two skins of animals together, making a rudimentary piece of cloth that could help them seek shelter and protect themselves from scorching rays of sun and cold nights.
With time, due to cognitive evolution, humans evolve, leading them to invent and utilize simple machines for daily tasks. This mindset led to the evolution of seaming techniques. It further evolved with the invention of steel-made needles and cotton-made threads. Later, evolution changed the whole sewing field when the sewing machine was invented. It led to different types of seams coming into the market.
Significance of Nahttypen
Seam sets the structure of the cloth you are going to stitch. A good seam
- Maintains the shape of the suit or dress
- Reinforces stress on main points
- Maximizes the durability of the suit
- Gives clean and fine look to the stitched cloth
For a good seam, tailors use different tools to mark the pointers and draw line, such as
- Chalk
- Pencil
- Scale
Types of Seams
There are different kinds of seams based on its design. Some of the seams are very basic, while some are aesthetically sound and some are industry specified. We will dive deeper into each category and sub-categories.
Basic Seam Types
There are seven basic types of seams:
- Plain seam
- Flat-felled seam
- Bound seam
- French seam
- Flat seam
- Lapped seam
- Decorative seam
Plain Seam
It is the simplest seam in which decent stitches are made to join the clothes.
Uses: It is used in stitching of all kinds of clothes.
Advantage: It is compatible with all kinds of fabrics and easy to sew clothes.
Disadvantage: You cannot sew edges with it and it cannot handle much stress.
Flat-felled Seam
It is perfect for jeans and hard clothes because it allows you to fold the edges of the cloth and sew it.
Uses: It is perfect for jeans, and sportswear.
Advantage: You can sew edges with it; it gives neat and clean look.
Disadvantage: It is time-consuming.
Bound Seam
Mostly used in designer clothes and active wear, bound seam requires fabric strips to hide raw edges to give a protective and beautiful finish.
Uses: It is used in designer clothes and activewear.
Advantage: It doubles strength and beauty of the cloth.
Disadvantage: It requires extra materials and skills.
French Seam
Consisting of two seaming lines, french seam involves closing edges between the stitches to make the suit epitome of pulchritude.
Uses: It is used in light-weight fabrics, wedding dresses, and lingerie.
Advantages: It protects the edges and enhances the design.
Disadvantage: It requires a lot of attention and could not work with hard fabrics.
Flat Seam
Flat seam is perfect for edge to edge butted clothes. It does not require an overlapping process, aiming to enhance comfort.
Uses: It is ideal for sportswear.
Advantage: It improves the bulkiness of the cloth.
Disadvantage: It cannot sustain more stress than overlapping seam.
Lapped Seam
As the name says, it requires overlapping the edges over each other to help the bulky fabric resist stress.
Uses: It is perfect for leather clothes and heavy fabrics.
Advantage: It resists stress.
Disadvantage: The seam is visible which affects the design.
Decorative Seam
This kind of seam is solely to elevate the dress by embellishing it with stones and beads.
Uses: It is used in wedding dresses, home decor and fashionable garments.
Advantage: It enhances the design.
Disadvantage: it reduces the strength of the cloth.
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Advanced Seam Types
There are two main advanced and extensive seam types for specific kinds of clothes.
Princess Seam: It is used to create and shape the flowy dress. Therefore, it is ideal for frocks, maxis, and dresses.
Welded Seam: Used to stitch waterproof and gear clothes, via pressure and heat, clothes are joined in welded seam.
Double-stitched Seam: Perfectly designed for workwear, it strengthens the high-stress clothing wear to resist pressure.
Industry-specific Seam Types
Some industries require uniforms and particular clothing items, due to which they require customized and different seams. Some are the types of seams that are used in specific industrial clothes.
Triple Stitched Seam: It is used to stitch safety garments, aiming to make them bulky so that they can withstand pressure and stress.
Tape Sealed Seam: It seamlessly shapes Hazmet suits so that it can be worn easily without getting torn.
Reinforced Seam: It keeps the outdoor gear and tents lightweight and while strengthening them enough to stand in winds.
Ultrasonic Seam: It keeps disposable medical wear lightweight enough to become wearable for doctors, medical and healthcare workers.
Technical Aspects to Consider While Choosing a Seam
Before choosing a nahttypen, you need to determine the following things so that it would seamlessly and beautifully joined the two pieces of clothes
Fabric Strength
Every fabric cannot go with all kinds of seams. Woven cloth can go with hard seams, while stretchable fabric can be stitched via elasticity-driving seams.
Thread
What thread you are using can help you pick the seam. Cotton threads enhance softness while polyester thread promotes plasticity.
Distance
You can determine durability of seam by observing the distance between seam and edges.
Seam Finishing
It will help you make the final decision because finishing type determines how long your seam will resist stress.
Seam Selection Based on Fabric Compatibility
Every fabric is made for a specific kind of seam. Here is a precise table to understand what seam can go with your favorite dress or suit.
Technological Innovation in Seam
Digitization has revolutionized every area of our life, including tailoring industry too by innovating machines and tools that automate some tasks in the process of stitching a cloth. Here are a few innovations in seams because of technology:
Seam Taping: It requires the application of heated tapes on seamed areas to make the cloth waterproof.
3D Seam Modelling: It offers ergonomic designs to protective gear and sportswear.
Flatlock Stitching: It makes the garment comfortable and stretchable; that’s why it is highly used in activewear.
Bonded Seams: As the name says, there are sticky layers that compensate for stitches to give smooth finishing.
Ultrasonic Welding: It allows you to join pieces of cloth with zero stitches.
Smart Seams: It integrates clothing pieces with wearable technology to make it impeccably digitized.
Seam Finishing Techniques
After getting done with seam, you need to treat them to get it done while ticking the boxes of aesthetics, design and strength. Here are a few finishing techniques to turn your raw seam into well-finished ones
- Bias binding
- Overlocking
- Pinking shears
- Zigzag stitching
A good finishing extends the life of a seam and gives it neat and clean look.
Common Nahttypen Mistakes that Everyone Make
We all make mistakes, even experts leave some loopholes as well. Here are some common mistakes people tend to make in nahttypen that can be avoided if you would stay vigilant while stitching.
Non-compatible Seam: Going with the seam that is not compatible with the fabric affects durability of the seam and fabric both.
Poor Thread Tension: Avoiding prewash and using wrong thread can result in puckering.
No Seam Finishing: Not-so-properly done seam finishing can make the stitching non-durable. Overcomplication: Inability to select the seam because of overthinking can cause chaos.
Negligent Towards Fabric Grain: Inability to judge the fabric before selecting seam type can affect the shape of the cloth.
Failure to Judge Stress Points: This can affect the stitching of the dress and ultimately the suit won’t look good.
Steps to Maintain Seam
How you wash clothes and use your dress determine the life span of every seam. Here are a few steps and guidelines to care and maintain seam.
- Follow the washing instructions recommended by the tailor.
- Do not use harsh chemicals on your clothes.
- Avoid high heat to expand the life expectancy of your dress.
- Repair minute damage without delay.
Conclusion
Nahttypen is a German word for “seam types.” Seaming is one of the processes of stitching in which a tailor joins two pieces of clothes together. With time, the process evolved, leading to numerous types based on basicity, advancement and innovation in the field. Yet, one thing you must remember is to treat your seam with fine finishing. To extend the lifespan of your seaming, you need to follow the guidelines of a tailor and keep the garments from harsh chemicals and heat.
FAQs:
What seam is compatible with lawn clothes?
Plain seam is perfect for lawn and cotton clothes.
Can elasticable seam enhance stretching ability of a jersey?
Yes, of course because elastic able seams stretch with the stretchy clothes.
Is flat-felled seam stronger than plain seam?
Yes because flat-felled seam encloses the edges while plain seam fails to do that.
What is the ideal seam for an apron?
A lapped seam is ideal for an apron because it gives it roughness and strength to resist heat.
